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I'm not going to write about every course, but I made some notes about my favourite one:
The first few dishes were all excellent – well thought out, innovative, executed perfectly, but none of them quite had me singing for joy, “Oh God this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth”. The asparagus came pretty close, and improved throughout the dish as I became more generous with the sorrel.
Then there was the sole in a white wine reduction foam with watercress puree. I started with a sniff as I usually do. Then I paused, grinned, and sniffed again. I don’t know how long they must have reduced the wine for to get that aroma, but however long it was, it was worth every hour. I cut into the fish, and it flaked away onto the fork, and yet each mouthful had a juicy, almost meaty firmness to it. It shouldn’t be possible to be simultaneously that flaky and that firm. And if I thought the reduction smelled good, that was but a foretaste of the full flavour in the mouth. Rich, warming, just the right amount of sweetness, a hint of creaminess. The fish and reduction alone together was so good that for the first couple of mouthfuls I completely forgot about the watercress, because it already had my heart singing about the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth.
Reader, it got better. The watercress was full of aromatics, with a bright sharpness, and a surprising absence of bitterness. It cut through the warmth and the sweetness and gave it whole new layers of complexity and excitement. The white wine reduction was the hug from a lover you’ve just seen for the first time in ages. The watercress was the hint of teeth marks they leave on your neck.
The first few dishes were all excellent – well thought out, innovative, executed perfectly, but none of them quite had me singing for joy, “Oh God this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth”. The asparagus came pretty close, and improved throughout the dish as I became more generous with the sorrel.
Then there was the sole in a white wine reduction foam with watercress puree. I started with a sniff as I usually do. Then I paused, grinned, and sniffed again. I don’t know how long they must have reduced the wine for to get that aroma, but however long it was, it was worth every hour. I cut into the fish, and it flaked away onto the fork, and yet each mouthful had a juicy, almost meaty firmness to it. It shouldn’t be possible to be simultaneously that flaky and that firm. And if I thought the reduction smelled good, that was but a foretaste of the full flavour in the mouth. Rich, warming, just the right amount of sweetness, a hint of creaminess. The fish and reduction alone together was so good that for the first couple of mouthfuls I completely forgot about the watercress, because it already had my heart singing about the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth.
Reader, it got better. The watercress was full of aromatics, with a bright sharpness, and a surprising absence of bitterness. It cut through the warmth and the sweetness and gave it whole new layers of complexity and excitement. The white wine reduction was the hug from a lover you’ve just seen for the first time in ages. The watercress was the hint of teeth marks they leave on your neck.
